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Artful Abundance: Palettie
A Full Spectrum of Flavors Lights Up Each Dish at Palettie Gourmet Bistro.

by Christina Obitts-Elgin + photos by Jason Turner
 
• • •

Just as an artist masterfully mixes colors on his palette, Chef Lettie Gordon combines flavors to indulge her customer’s palate, and you’ll find she does it with gusto –– as is evident with each dish that leaves her kitchen. And the restaurant where she creates her art takes its name from another combination. Meld palette, palate and Chef Gordon’s first name and you have Palettie Gourmet Bistro & Catering Restaurant in downtown Boonsboro.

Soft lighting and the glow of candles in Morrocan-style lanterns beckon visitors to the cozy dining room. A whimsical chalkboard-like panel adorns one wall near the bar, and signs bearing messages like, “Enter as guests, leave as friends” and “Believe” mingle on the walls with colorful collages and abstract-figurative paintings by local artist Laura Renee Davis. “I think food is an art, and I like to incorporate the work of local artists as well,” Chef Gordon says.

Food & Family
The intimate bistro is quite a contrast to the last restaurant Chef Gordon worked in — her father’s 250-seat Steamboat Landing in Gatesville, Md. She hung up her apron there to raise her children and volunteer in their schools, and Chef Gordon and her family moved to Keedysville five years ago. But the kitchen called her. “The only thing I like to do is cook,” she says, smiling. “I knew I wanted a small restaurant where I was the only chef.” In opening Palettie last year, she realized her dream of a restaurant where “every plate is my signature” and that still allows her to be home to tuck the kids in bed.

The importance of food and family in Chef Gordon’s life and her approach to her work stem from her Italian heritage — which includes 14 chefs in the family. Meals in Italy are a time for family and friends to come together, relax and enjoy one another’s company — and Palettie’s atmosphere reflects that philosophy. Chef Gordon also adheres to the Old World Italian belief that you use your village to make your business. “If you stay in your community, and you take and give back to it, you’re bound to succeed,” she says. She purchases her meats from DaKaRoh Farm in Boonsboro and picks up summer fruits and vegetables at the local farmers market. “Sometimes people will drop off herbs at my back door.” The fresh, local ingredients she finds also inspire daily specials. “I look for what’s fresh first, and do a majority of the shopping myself.”

A further bit of philosophy comes from her father, who told her, “There’s only one way to advertise a restaurant — one plate at a time.” Just as Italian artists DaVinci and Michaelangelo skillfully created their masterpieces, Chef Gordan personally prepares each meal with only prep help from assistant Brian Massey. This kind of craftsmanship helps fill the dining room by word of mouth — and it is obvious Palettie is filling a need in the town of Boonsboro. “There’s no other fine dining style in town,” Chef Gordon says. “I think Boonsboro was ready for a gourmet bistro.”

Full Palette of Flavors
As a small bistro, Palettie’s menu consists of a selection of regular entrées, with soups and appetizers that change daily. I begin with one of the evening’s special appetizers, grilled eggplant with tomato and Fresh Corn Salsa — which is a feast for the eyes and the stomach! Three generous cuts of grilled eggplant, served at room temperature, support a mound of cold salsa made with grape tomatoes, cucumbers, fresh pepper, fresh corn off the cob, cilantro, feta cheese and a balsamic fig vinaigrette. The unusual dish is delicious, with a fresh, light flavor.

The next appetizer, the fire roasted red pepper crostini, boasts a delectable combination of ingredients: fresh ricotta cheese layered on crostini and topped with fire roasted red peppers, fresh herbs, olive oil, champagne vinegar, fresh basil and parsley. A sprinkling of feta and a drizzled with balsamic “tar” dressing add zing to both presentation and flavor. Brie is served next, topped with blackberries, apples, blueberries, strawberries, papaya, pineapple, nuts and dried cranberries, all seared in butter, brown sugar and honey. The resulting sweet, syrupy mixture flavors the crostini bread and tastes heavenly.

The soup du jour is bianca fagoli, a homemade Italian favorite featuring kale, collards, potatoes, cannellini beans, tomatoes, green and yellow squash and smoked turkey. The rich flavors transport me to the Old Country. Though today’s choice is made with fresh chicken stock and turkey, the soups typically are vegetarian. Chef Gordon tries to ensure a vegetarian appetizer option and offers vegetarian entrées on the regular menu. “I have so many vegetarian friends,” she says. “And I think it is the next thing, as far as gourmet goes.”

Moving on to the main course, the Gold Fin Tilapia Salad intrigues me. The flaky fish is pan-seared in butter and olive oil and specially seasoned. And it is perched atop a salad unlike any I’ve had before. The molto salad — molto meaning “everything fresh and in abundance” — can be a combination of any vegetable, fruit, nut, seed or crouton that Chef Gordon decides is most flattering to the dish. Tonight’s molto salad is a mescaline mix with pineapple, blueberries, strawberries, mango, apple, orange, sunflower seeds, dried papaya and dried cranberries, tossed in balsamic fig dressing. It is an amazing combination of sweet, tangy and nutty flavors — and I fear any salad I have in the future will pale in comparison.

The grilled chicken entrée is a creative and sumptuous dish. An orange marmalade, apricot and cherry compote tops the Tuscan-herb seasoned chicken breast, served etutto — or all on one plate — with the house starch and a salad. The innocuous-sounding “house starch” this evening is pommes puree, a rustic mash of potatoes with skins, cauliflower, cabbage and fresh corn. The rich, buttery concoction far surpasses regular mashed potatoes, with the kernels of corn creating a unique texture.

Finally, I sample Palettie’s signature spaghetti and meatballs — a generous portion featuring Chef Gordon’s family recipe, passed down through the generations. The homemade meatballs include ricotta cheese, milk-soaked breadcrumbs and organic beef, and a made-from-scratch sauce is a delectable combination of fresh basil, parsley, tomatoes and garlic. It is her “family’s heritage in a bowl,” and Chef Gordon offers all-you-can-eat on Palettie Spaghetti Wednesday nights.

Finishing my meal, I understand the positive word of mouth that has helped fill Palettie’s dining room over the past year — and I begin to realize why Chef Gordon says her customers’ only complaint is that the portions are too large. “In [Italy] if people leave remotely unsatiated, you haven’t done your job.” Chef Gordon certainly has done her job, and done it well, in offering abundance on many levels to Boonsboro and beyond.

Palettie Gourmet Bistro & Catering Restaurant
1 S. Main St., Boonsboro
www.palettie.com
301-432-0500
Reservations recommended.
Open 4–8 p.m. Sunday, 5–8 or 9 p.m. Wednesday–Saturday. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
Palettie is always open for lunch during Nora Roberts’ book signings.

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